Downtown

Now, it is always good practice to take advice from people who know the land before venturing out exploring. You can then do one of the following with that advice.

1.    Heed it

2.    Seek other views and make a decision based on the most consistent position

3.    Consider the advice, then ignore it and do what you want anyway!!

Guess which option I took?

Practically everyone I've spoken to since I arrived (and I mean locals mostly) have counselled against going to downtown Nairobi - I could be mugged, robbed, assaulted, pick-pocketed etc etc! The first thing I was told about Nairobi is that the nickname for the place is 'Nairobbery'!  So for the first month of my time here I didn't venture downtown.

But I thought to myself 'stuff and nonsense, how bad can it be?'  I love people-watching and busy city centres are ideal places to do that; so armed with my personal alarm, fully charged mobile phone, airtime credit and data (for Google maps in case I get lost); and my selfie-tick (which doubles as a self-defence baton), I ventured forth to downtown Nairobi on a Saturday afternoon.

My faithful cab driver Joseph took me down to the CBD (central business district) and reluctantly deposited me at the Goethe Institute (the German cultural centre). He wanted to drive me around and wasn't too pleased with my intention to roam on foot. (I like to think he was concerned for my welfare, not the money he could have made.) 

The art exhibition I wanted to see at the Goethe Institute was closed, so I wandered across to the Alliance Francaise (is there a British cultural centre in Nairobi? I haven't found one yet). I met a lovely friendly and very pretty young Kenyan woman who was there to review the art exhibition. The French centre exhibition was also closed. (What's up with that Nairobi? Exhibitions shouldn't be closed on a Saturday afternoon!) Fortunately, the lovely guy at the reception let us slip around the barrier and wander around the gallery for a while. Confidence boosted, I ventured further and spent 4 hours wandering around aimlessly, people-watching and just soaking up the atmosphere.

Verdict: I love downtown Nairobi!

It reminds me a little bit of Mediterranean towns I’ve visited in the past, with wide avenues, generous central reservations, and pedestrianised walkways cutting through the traffic; but with the added flavour of the hustle, heat and colour of 1970s Lagos mainland; the Marina area (it must be the Bata stores at every corner). I did not feel unsafe at any time; not even when a matatu driver tried to shorten my time on earth! I walked like I had a destination and nobody paid me any attention. I particularly liked the Agar Khan walk with the seating areas filled with locals just passing the time of day. (Note to self - find out what the relationship is between the Agar Khan and Kenya; there are Agar Khan hospitals and clinics, schools, streets, etc, why?). 

I walked down Kenyatta Avenue, Moi Avenue, along the river Nairobi (not much of a river from what I could see); up Haile Sellasie Avenue (we do like to name our streets after past presidents). Rested a while in the August 7 Memorial Park (the site of the terrorist attack on the US Embassy in 1998; see http://www.memorialparkkenya.org/). Continued past the City Hall, the house of parliament, the courts, the international conference centre. Up Uhuru highway (another president!) and through Uhuru Park, a huge park filled with families celebrating the end of Ramadan. The sight of young women in full veil squealing on the park rides, and children with faces painted, taking turns for a ride on the camels made me grin with pleasure. (I steered clear of the camels though, I hear they spit!). I walked on past museums and galleries that I intend to return to and amazingly managed to make my way back to the Goethe Institute without having to consult Google maps at all!!

Four glorious hours of aimless wandering and people watching. A day well spent I say!!

So what's the moral of this tale? Well, seek advice, use your head and then follow your heart. Works for me....

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